We have spent the day in Balibo, a place of significance to Australians, where five journalists and cameramen, who were reporting on the then rumoured impending Indonesian invasion, were killed by Indonesian special forces in October 1975. Balibo itself is a small village nestled into the hills, very close to the Indonesian border. It is fairly typical of a Timorese village with a market place, small school and grassy oval and has a few magnificent Banyan trees close to the main road. It would all be fairly inconspicuous if it were not for the rejuvenation of the small house that the journalists sheltered in before they were killed. The Australian flag and “Australia” was symbolically painted on the side of the building by one of the men, Greg Shackleton, in a desperate attempt to display their neutral and journalistic intentions. This small house, known as the Balibo Flag House, has become a poignant shrine of remembrance to these men as well as the hundreds and thousands of East Timorese who lost their life during the Indonesian occupation.
The Balibo Five as they are known have been the subject of continuous inquiry surrounding the unknown nature of their death and handling of their bodies. Tireless campaigns from family members and supporters saw a coronial inquest opened in 2007 in NSW, Australia, which found they were deliberately murdered by Indonesian special forces. However no-one has ever been charged for their deaths. There has also been multiple books written on the subject, particularly by journalist Jill Jolifee, whose book was the basis of the movie Balibo.
Recently in Balibo, the old Portuguese Fort has been renovated into a beautiful hotel. Situated on top of the hill, just off the main street, it has been tastefully restored into 8 rooms of accommodation and the main building, a lovely dining room and kitchen. Di Za, of Dili fame, runs the restaurant with tables on the old verandah as well as out in the garden with beautiful 180 degree views over town, the hills and down to the coast. We saw a strikingly coloured kingfisher sunning itself in the long grass beyond the forts walls. The old canon was of much interest to my children as was the great climbing trees (fairly sure they were not put their for that purpose!) in the garden.
After visiting the Balibo flag house and having a short walk around Balibo and the fort, we had a lovely morning tea out in the garden and enjoyed the still cool breezes before setting off down the hill to the border town of Batugade and then on to Dili. The coast road is very easy (comparatively to the rest of Timor-Leste) driving. Once down the hill, the road is still gravel but well graded and fewer potholes and obstacles than many other roads I had been on. Approximately half way back to Dili is the town of Maubara which has a lovely beach, drink stop and market. There is also an old 17th century Dutch fort here but it was not open when we passed through. The market with the basket weavers is definitely worth a look to support the local women who sell their creations here. The road at times is fantastic, new bitumen and lane markings and heading up high into the rocky coast. There are shrines and crosses at every corner and the views are definitely worth stopping for albeit with a degree of caution with the steep edges. We then pass over the Loes river, with a long bridge and then onward back to Dili. The road from Liquicia is still under construction so paradoxically this section is one of the longest of the day. All in all, a wonderful way to spend a long weekend and we definitely feel rejuvenated, and inspired to see more of the country, even after a short time out of the heat and dust of Dili.
Balibo Flag House, Balibo
Balibo Town, looking South-West from the old Fort
Playing on the stairs leading up to the Balibo Fort Hotel
Local girls filling up their water containers, Balibo, Timor-Leste
The coast road heading East back to Dili, Timor-Leste
Basket weavers, Maubara, Timor-Leste