A long weekend in Timor-Leste to celebrate All Souls day was the perfect opportunity to explore further in Timor-Leste and head for the hills East of Dili. It was also my Mum’s birthday this weekend and I wanted to thank her in part for living with us in Dili and helping look after my children. I wouldn’t have been able to do it without her.
We made our way to Bacau and then the ‘hard to find’ road south to Viqueque. I alway love getting out of Dili especially into the mountains. The road South is windy and bumpy but the slower pace ensures you take in the mountains, especially the spectacular vista to Mt Matebian which is the second highest peak in the country. The road initially passes by rice paddies and small villages before climbing for then next 20-30km. At the highest point there are glorious, almost semi-alpine views. The guest house we were staying at is just before Loi Hunu on the bend of the river and is a local venture with a combination of small house rooms and small villas set in a beautiful little valley next to the river. Even in the dry season there is still a small waterfall and deep pools to swim in and I imagine it would be a sight to see at the height of the ‘wet’.
The highlight of a stay the region is the hike around “Mundo Perdido” translated as the lost world. While I didn’t have the opportunity to do this all day hike as I had my young children with me, my fellow guests returned enthusiastic about the 6-7 hour walk. We did however have the opportunity to visit the local caves which were used as ‘hideouts’ by the resistance. A small, steep walk to the entrance of the cave and then a guided tour by the local children was enjoyable, as much for its historical significance as the beauty of the caves. My children were enamoured with the very small bats that we found in the last chamber as well as the tiny swiftest buzzing around their head. A small fee goes to the land owner and $5 fee of the guide are all help support the local community.
Driving around the region on the 2nd of November we felt very privileged to see the Timorese people celebrate All Souls day. Large processions of families with gifts, flowers and candles to celebrate their ancestors at grave sites and cemeteries around the country was a very beautiful thing to witness. From an outsiders perspective, it seems a beautiful way of grieving for, honouring and celebrating deceased loved ones. We also visited the brightly coloured Escola do Reino de Venilale in the village of Venilale. The drive back to Bacau was again slow but we had a lovely pitstop and lunch at the culinary institution that is Restaurant Amelia. It has an outside courtyard with beautiful big trees and plants and is a nice respite from what can be a long drive back to Dili.
The drive to Bacau from Dili
Driving south of Bacau with view to Mt Matebian
Loi Hunu Guesthouse - heading down to for a swim
Swimming Hole, Loi Hunu
Escola do Reino de Venilale
All Souls Day Venilale, Timor-Leste
Families heading to the cemetery, All Souls Day, Venilale
